Sustainable prawns, at a price

Spencer_Gulf_king_prawns_MSC_certified

I’m a prawn junkie. I love those little schoolies salt and spice rubbed and deep-fried to crispy perfection. Or king prawns skewered lengthwise, barbecued in their full body armour, and peeled to reveal plump, pink, almost steamed, flesh. Banana prawns dressed in Panko breadcrumbs, deep-fried and dipped in a chilli-kicked mango mayonnaise make me weak at the knees. I save prawn shells to make stock for tom yam goong (sour & spicy prawn soup) – my favourite Thai dish. But a generous handful of prawns cooked in a thick, rich, Indian butter curry is by far my guiltiest pleasure. Ah, yes, I love a good prawn.

So my sustainable seafood push last year left me in a bit of a quandary. After sorting through the quagmire of misleading and contradictory information on sustainable sources, I eventually figured out the fish bit. I decided i would mostly eat little fish, those lower down the food chain that are fast growing and breeding and less likely to be over-fished. But what about prawns?

The Australian Marine Conservation Society tells consumers to “think twice” about eating wild caught banana, tiger and king prawns and aquaculture species. On its website, the GoodFishBadFish team relays the ACMS recommendation that haul caught school and bay prawns from NSW are a good choice, but definitely say no to imported prawns. In my confusion i didn’t eat prawns for a while. But once a prawn junkie, always a prawn junkie and they’ve gradually found their way back onto the weekly menu.

Then I heard about Spencer Gulf king prawns, which was the world’s first king prawn fishery to receive certification for sustainability from the not-for-profit Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) last June. I thought all my ‘throw a shrimp on the barbie’ Christmases had come at once.

Unfortunately, it’s almost impossible to find MSC-labelled prawns. There’s good reason for that. For fishmongers and retailers to carry MSC-labelled products they must obtain chain of custody certification, which ensures traceability of the product. This is time consuming and costly to do. So far no fishmongers have chain of custody certification in Australia. And there are no retailers currently selling MSC-certified prawns.

This doesn’t mean they can’t stock the produce; they just can’t fly the MSC blue eco-label with its white tick of approval. So if consumers – like me – are looking for the label, or asking specifically for MSC-certified prawns, they’re unlikely to find them.

The Spencer Gulf king prawn team told me that two fishmongers at the Sydney Fish Market stocked their prawns. So off I went one lunchtime to buy some. But when I naively asked for MSC-certified prawns the staff looked at me as if I was stupid. They didn’t have a clue what I was talking about. If I’d just asked for South Australian king prawns, and they had been in stock (as it happens they weren’t in stock in February, as the last catch was in December) they probably could have assisted me.  So that’s what I got for trying to be sustainable and responsible – a blank stare. I had simply been too specific. But I didn’t know any better, and I suspect many consumers would be in the same boat.

Anthony Mercer, the business manager at De Costi Seafoods says, the company usually stocks Spencer Gulf prawns when they’re available. But the company hasn’t got chain of custody certification, so they can’t be sold as MSC-certified prawns. He says getting certification is not overly expensive and the company may do so in future. But a percentage of the prawn sales will go back to the MSC.

“It becomes a relatively expensive exercise in an industry where there isn’t particularly big margins,” Mercer says. “That will be passed down the line. The public, at the end of the day, will pay more for that product.”

I suggest that many consumers are prepared to pay more for better quality produce. But Mercer says while the quality of Spencer Gulf prawns is “very good”, it’s easy to confuse an eco-label with a better quality product, which isn’t always the case.

What worries Mercer is that those fisheries that don’t obtain certification will be labelled “unsustainable by default”. He believes that as long as fish stocks are monitored and quotas are adjusted in accordance to that, it’s a sustainable source.

“I want fish there for infinitum,” he says. “My whole livelihood depends upon it.”

I eventually found MSC-certified prawns at Fish & Co, a sustainable seafood café in Annandale, Sydney that has a wet fish sales service. I cooked the green prawns alongside some others bought from the supermarket. Both batches were peeled, marinated in olive oil, lemon zest, thinly sliced red chilli and a sprinkling of fresh thyme. Then I barbecued them. The Spencer Gulf prawns stuck stubbornly to the barbecue while the supermarket prawns didn’t.

Spencer_Gulf_king_prawns_MSC_certified

But on tasting the prawns it was easy to understand why. The Spencer Gulf prawns were like butter – meltingly soft. The supermarket prawns were much firmer. When they were eaten alongside the Spencer Gulf prawns the supermarket catch were most certainly tougher.  The marinade masked any difference in the flavour of the flesh.

I thought the difference in texture could be due to where the prawns were placed, and for how long, on the barbecue. They could have been cooked over unequal heat, and if the supermarket prawns were turned over last, they may have been cooked for a little longer, which would have impacted the texture. I decided to give them another chance.

The next day, I cooked the remainder of both batches of prawns with spaghetti al cartoccio (spaghetti cooked in a bag). Spaghetti, cooked until not quite al dente, is mixed with tomato sauce, white wine, herbs, anchovies, and capers. It is placed in a foil pouch with some prawns laid on top and cooked in the oven. The prawns steam in the pouch and absorb subtle aromas. Again the Spencer Gulf prawns trumped the supermarket variety with their glorious soft texture. Again, I detected little difference in flavour.

I asked Simon Clark, the executive director of the Spencer Gulf and West Coast Prawn Fisherman’s Association, why those prawns are possibly texturally superior.

Clark says the fishing boats are set up “like mini factories”. The prawns are graded and packed within half an hour of capture and snap – or blast – frozen at -40°C.  Blast freezing maintains the cell structure of the prawn so they don’t expand then collapse when defrosted.

“If you freeze them slowly it expands them and breaks the cell structure, which can change the texture,” he says.

He acknowledges that MSC-labelled prawns haven’t made it through to retail shelves yet, even though it’s approaching a year since the fishery was certified.

“For a retailer to display certification, that blue tick of approval, they need to go through a chain of custody audit and pay a royalty and licence fee and … I don’t think the blue label is going to bring [retailers] that small premium right now,” Clark says. “I think it’s something that’s going to grow.”

He hopes the MSC will take on board some of that marketing responsibility. In the meantime:

“we’re trying to promote Spencer Gulf king prawns as a certified prawn … more than maybe just the MSC [logo] itself.”

He also sees certification as an investment in the future. However, obtaining certification hasn’t changed the fishery significantly. Clark says it was already a sustainable operation, the MSC just recognised those good practices.

As Mercer puts it:

“Nothing’s changed in that fishery from last year’s catch to this year’s catch, but you pay more for it.”

So for giving a fishery a tick of approval for something it is potentially already doing, the MSC receives an annual fee (depending on the size of the business) and a royalty fee of 0.5 per cent on the sale of certified products. In addition, third party certifiers charge fisheries – and those in the supply chain – for the relevant certification.

The manager of MSC Australia and New Zealand, Patrick Caleo, says while there are currently no fishmongers with chain of custody certification in Australia, the organisation has done a lot of work with the supply chain recently to get wholesalers and distributors certified, and is now focusing its efforts on the restaurant sectors and wet fish counters.

“It won’t be long before certified prawns are available widely around Australia,” he says.

Three other Australian fisheries that have met the MSC standard: the West Australian rock lobster fishery, the South Australian Lakes and Coorong fishery, and the Heard and McDonald Island mackerel icefish fishery.

Another three Australian fisheries are currently in MSC assessment, including Australia’s largest prawn fishery – the Northern prawn fishery.

“Nearly every prawn sold in the country is going to be MSC-accredited,” Mercer says.

When MSC-labelled prawns finally hit retail shelves, they may give some consumers greater piece of mind. But it’s likely to be at a price.

Note: Photographs supplied by the Spencer Gulf and West Coast Prawn Fisherman’s Association.

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24 Comments

Filed under Food Issues, Sustainable Seafood Challenge

24 responses to “Sustainable prawns, at a price

  1. As a fellow prawn addict I was really interested in this article! Glad to hear that the Spencer gulf ones were available (and not so far away from me too-yay!) and that they passed the taste test with flying colours!

    • From one prawn addict to another: Go Spencer Gulf prawns. Fish & Co sell them already peeled, which wasn’t quite what i was looking for. But they were certainly lovely.

  2. A really interesting post! I wonder if I can get these prawns in Melbourne.

  3. Rachel, such food for thought here… love your work, my friend! I am going to print this and embed it the information my brain. I, too, wonder if I can source these in Canberra. Will try the fishmonger at the markets I used to manage, methinks. Thank you for sharing.

  4. Great writing, Rachel and perfect timing for Sustainable Seafood Day! I was at the launch of these lovely little prawnies and wrote about them last year, but don’t often buy them so haven’t looked too hard here in Adelaide. Perhaps it’s time I did.

  5. wayne heeley

    hi rachel, could you provide the recipe for spaghetti al cartoccio? it sounds delicious and i have some prawns (not msc) in the fridge…
    thanks, wayne

    • Hi Wayne, You won’t be disappointed. This is a Terry Durack recipe. He published it in one of the newspapers years ago, and i’ve been making it ever since. I passed it on to my sister, too. We fondly refer to it as Spag in a Bag.

      Spaghetti al cartoccio (spaghetti cooked in a bag)
      Serves 2

      To make the bags, take two 50cm square sheets of kitchen foil. Lay the same size square of baking parchment over each one. Fold in half and scrunch up the sides to make a pouch.

      2tbsp olive oil
      2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
      400g canned chopped tomatoes
      50ml white wine
      pinch dried oregano
      pinch dried chilli
      1/2 tsp sugar
      2 anchovy fillets, chopped
      1tbsp salted capers, rinsed
      10 small black (Lingurian) olives
      6-8 medium green prawns
      220g spaghetti
      300g clams in their shells, rinsed
      1tbsp flat parsley leaves

      Heat the oven to 220 degrees Celcius. Brush the insides of the bags with a little olive oil.
      Heat the remaining oil in the saucepan and gently fry the garlic for 1 minute.
      Add the tomatoes, white wine, oregano, chilli, sugar, anchovies, capers and olives and simmer for 15 minutes, partially covered.
      De-vein the prawns. Cook the pasta in plenty of simmering salted water until only just al dente. Drain and toss with the sauce, then divide between the two bags. Add the prawns and clams, then fold and scrunch the tops to tightly seal.
      Place on an oven tray and bake for 15 minutes.
      To serve, open the bags and tip the contents out onto warm plates. Scatter with parsley, season if necessary, and drizzle with virgin olive oil.

      Wayne – i don’t usually add olives or clams and it is a gorgeous meal without. I also scatter on lots of shaved parmesan.
      Hope you enjoy it.

  6. wayne heeley

    thanks, it’s making me hungry already

  7. thelittlestanchovy

    What an interesting article. I am also a fellow prawn addict and now I know that I need to go and track down some Spencer Gulf Prawns! Thanks for the recipe above, I know I am going to love making this.

  8. i’ve been challenged about my seafood buying too, it does seem hard to make a sustainable choice, especially prawns. great post.

    • Yes, it’s certainly a challenge. But it feels good to explore the issue and to be able to answer some of those nagging questions.
      Thanks for dropping by and sharing your thoughts.

  9. What an informative post! I loved your taste comparisons too – it’s good to hear that the Spencer Gulf prawns won on the taste front. Unfortunately, I don’t have much of a choice when it comes to seafood. All prawns are imported in Switzerland and the choice on offer is quite small. My way of eating sustainable seafood is, unfortunately, to limit the occasions to once or twice a year!

    • Thanks for the feedback & I’m pleased you found it an informative post.
      You must really look forward to prawns when you have them. You must let us know how you cook them!

  10. What a fantastic post… well written and well researched. This kind of clear explanation of the sometimes confusing seafood market is really helpful. And that recipe looks brilliant! Thanks.

  11. Wow, what a journey. It’s tough trying to do the right thing sometimes, but I’m glad you perservered and shared your findings with us. Will keep an eye out for these next time we’re doing a thai-themed dinner.

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