Tag Archives: The Star

Notes from the inner sanctum of Momofuku Seiobo


The inner sanctum of David Chang’s Momofuku Seiobo

Who would think of burning watermelon rind, then blitzing it into a blackened emulsion with  grapeseed oil to serve topped with a hillock of paper-thin slices of raw radish, jewels of grilled watermelon, and a sprinkling of fermented black bean? David Chang would. The result is a slightly gritty, faintly ashy paste that perfectly offsets the peppery freshness of radish and sweet bursts of diced watermelon. Idiosyncrasies like this — and including donuts filled with a wicked pork fat caramel — intersperse the menu at Momofuku Seiobo, Chang’s digs at The Star casino and entertainment complex in Sydney. Continue reading


Filed under Chefs, Restaurant Reviews

Balla’s star performance


Salumi at Balla, by Anson Smart

If there’s one thing i’d like to squeeze out of Gabriele Taddeucci, head chef at Stefano Manfredi’s Balla at Sydney’s The Star casino, it’s how to make the ‘nduja that he serves on wood-fired ciabatta with a dollop of rich, soft goats cheese.

For the uninitiated ‘nduja (pronounced en-doo-ya) is a traditional Southern Italian salami that is – wait for it … spreadable. That’s right folks. Forget the meat slicer, this oozy-schmoozy salami can be spread on bread, licked off fingers and – here’s something to lose sleep over – melted into soups and pasta sauces to give them a chilli smack not to be messed with.

I’ve dined at Balla a number of times – it’s one of the benefits of working across the road at Fairfax – but ‘nduja has proved a perennial sticking point. Since the first time i selected from the antipasti menu the charming trio, of which it is a member, i haven’t been able to resist it.

“Outrageous” is how my most recent dining partner described it. Outrageous it surely is.  Continue reading


Filed under Restaurant Reviews

Chang worship: what’s it all about?

At the risk of doing a Mia Freedman – the magazine columnist and television show presenter who angered a sizeable chunk of the nation when she questioned why sports people are lauded as super heroes while surgeons, medical researchers and artists are rarely recognised for their contributions to society – I’m just going to come out and say it. Why has Sydney gone gaga over David Chang? Continue reading


Filed under Reflections